Riding in Thailand, my CRF300L, named “Freedom”, now for 3.5 years and 75,000 km.
From the winding mountain roads of Northern Thailand to the dusty trails of Isan, Robert Merks shares his experiences exploring the country on Freedom, his Honda CRF300L, and the luggage setup that has travelled with him for nearly four years.
Thailand offers some of the best adventure motorcycle riding in Southeast Asia, from the winding mountain roads of Northern Thailand to rugged off-road trails, remote dirt tracks and challenging enduro routes. I’ve spent nearly four years and 75,000 km exploring Thailand on my Honda CRF300L, which I’ve named Freedom. Fitted with Turkana Gear MadMules™ rackless motorcycle luggage, waterproof TrekBags and modular soft luggage accessories, my lightweight adventure bike has carried me through muddy jungle trails, mountain passes and the dusty backroads of Isan. And despite all those kilometres, I’ve barely scratched the surface of what Thailand has to offer adventure riders.
I’ve been living in Thailand since 2012, in Isan, the authentic northeast of the country. During my first few years, I explored the surroundings on a Honda PCX scooter and a Lifan 200cc Explorer before switching to cruisers.
Thailand has excellent roads, including some incredibly exciting winding routes through the mountains of the north. But eventually, I wanted to get off the beaten track and explore the more challenging unpaved roads.
So I bought a Honda CRF300L and transformed it into a lightweight adventure motorcycle, fitting it with Turkana Gear MadMules™, TrekBags™, a TurtleTrunk™, BushBaby™ and other accessories. I named my CRF300L Freedom. Almost four years and 75,000 km later, I’ve seen an incredible amount of Thailand, yet my bucket list is still long enough to keep me busy for decades!
Where the Mountains Melt: Exploring Northern Thailand
My tyres were still steaming at the top of Phu Thap Boek. Behind me lay a breathtaking climb full of hairpin bends, winding upwards through the clouds like a grey ribbon.
Here, on the roof of Phetchabun province, the contrast between different adventure motorcycles becomes beautifully clear. Heavy adventure bikes with their wide panniers glide majestically over the asphalt, while lightweight dual-sports eagerly tackle the steep, unpaved backroads running parallel to the main road. The cool mountain air tastes of adventure, which I immediately found after leaving the mountain village and its famous temple behind, following the magnificent winding road over the mountaintops.
Towards evening, I reached a small village in Loei province. The scent of lemongrass, chilli and roasted meat drifted through the night market. As soon as I removed my helmet, I was surrounded by curious glances and broad smiles. Before long, I was sitting on a plastic chair at a wooden table, enjoying a plate of spicy Som Tam, or papaya salad, offered by a local family fascinated by my muddy motorcycle.
After a good night’s rest in one of the many small resorts found throughout Thailand, I headed further north into what can only be described as motorcycle paradise. My route took me towards the legendary Route 1148. The road winds through Nan province with a flowing rhythm that puts every adventure rider into a wonderful riding groove. Curve after curve, beautiful asphalt and views of dramatic limestone cliffs rising above the jungle. But for me, the real adventure begins when the asphalt ends.
Northern Thailand treated me to a rollercoaster of mountain tracks, where the jungle grows so close that the leaves sometimes brush against your riding gear.The cool morning air smells of pine needles and wet rocks as Freedom makes her way across worn slopes, gravel tracks, sandy sections and the occasional thrilling single trail through the jungle.
Just as my body began aching from wrestling the motorcycle through a sandy riverbed, the jungle gave way to an emerald-green sea of terraced rice fields.A small mountain settlement appeared on the hillside. I switched off the engine, and the sudden silence was interrupted only by the ticking of the cooling exhaust.
Within minutes, a villager approached. He saw a traveller on a muddy motorcycle and, with a warm smile, gestured towards a wooden bench before handing me a cup of locally grown, dark-roasted coffee. We didn’t speak the same language, but pointing at the mud on my motorcycle and laughing needed no translation. That’s something Thailand does particularly well.
Beyond the Asphalt: The Mae Hong Son Loop and Hidden Trails
The following days took me deeper into Northern Thailand, where you can spend weeks exploring and still feel you’ve barely scratched the surface. Morning mist slowly burns away under the brilliant sunshine, revealing the rugged mountains around Doi Inthanon. I clicked my visor down, feeling the familiar vibration of Freedom’s little single-cylinder engine through my boots.
Ahead lay the legendary Mae Hong Son Loop, famous for its 1,864 curves. It’s an extraordinary stretch of motorcycling asphalt, but I wasn’t there just for the perfect tarmac. I wanted to see what happened when the pavement ended. Every day, beautiful mountain highways gave way to narrow tracks cutting deep into the countryside.
The temperature dropped as the altitude increased, and the air carried the scent of damp earth and wild ginger. This is where Thailand demands your full attention. One moment you’re enjoying flowing mountain bends, the next you’re negotiating loose rocks, steep climbs or muddy tracks through the jungle. And then, just when you think the riding couldn’t get any better, you arrive at another mountain village, where a simple cup of coffee and a conversation made entirely of gestures become the highlight of your day.
That’s the hidden truth about adventure motorcycling in Thailand. The world-class roads and rugged off-road trails bring you here, but it’s often the moments when you park the motorcycle, surrounded by mountains and laughing with strangers who treat you like an old friend, that stay with you longest.
Back to Isan: Red Dust, Rice Fields and the Mekong River
After several weeks of mountain passes, small villages and cool evenings with fantastic views, my compass pointed east, towards home in Isan. The landscape changes dramatically. The dense green mountains eventually give way to a vast, sun-drenched plateau. The heat seeps straight through your riding gear, and the horizon seems to stretch endlessly.
The endless mountain curves are replaced by dusty laterite roads, rice fields, small farming villages and the mighty Mekong River. Near Phu Tok in Bueng Kan province, the riding offers two very different experiences. Adventure riders who prefer asphalt can enjoy the beautiful roads alongside the Mekong, passing fishing villages and enjoying wide-open views across the river.
But on my lightweight CRF300L, I prefer the red dirt tracks heading deeper into the countryside. Clay sections, narrow ridges between rice fields, sandy tracks and dry riverbeds. It’s the sort of terrain where a lightweight motorcycle really comes into its own. The famous red Isan dust gets absolutely everywhere, finding its way into every little corner of the motorcycle and covering everything in a fine layer of reddish dirt.
Whether you prefer the comfort and power of a big adventure twin or the playful nature of a lightweight single-cylinder motorcycle, Thailand has something for you. And the beauty is that you don’t need to ship your own motorcycle here. There are plenty of rental companies offering different motorcycles, along with guided road and off-road tours.
But for me, nothing beats exploring at my own pace on Freedom.
Finding the Right Adventure Luggage for Freedom
Shortly after purchasing my CRF300L, I began looking for a decent luggage solution. I wanted something lightweight, with removable inner bags, a modular setup, waterproof and dustproof protection, and, of course, it needed to look cool on the motorcycle! I eventually settled on the Turkana Gear MadMules™ rackless luggage system because it ticked all those boxes.
I started with 2 x 15 litre Trek-Bags™ on the MadMules™ and shortly after added 2 x 10 litre and 1 x 5 litre Trek-Bag™, along with a few Oxpackers.
Why? Simply because my requirements differ from tour to tour.
For camping trips, I use 2 x 15 litre Trek-Bags™ and either a 10 or 5 litre as a top bag, with 2 Oxpackers beside it. On the lower sides of the 15-litre bags, I use an Oxpacker™ as a toolkit on one side and a 3L BushBaby™ on the other.
A 15L TurtleTrunk™, holding my tent, sleeping bag and liner, finds its place on the rear seat. All together, my luggage doesn’t exceed 20 kg, with less than 5 kg mounted on top. Now I’m awaiting the arrival of a small GeckoGrip™, 5L Bullfrog™ tank bag and Bullfrog panniers.
When I’m not camping, my standard setup is MadMules™ with 2 x 10 litre Trek-Bags™ on the sides and one Oxpacker for tools. I hardly do day trips. Most of the time, I have the luxury of being able to go out for anything from three days to several weeks. I just tighten the straps on the Trek-Bags™ when there’s less inside and add the 5 litres on top if needed.
Before I mounted my navigation tower and large tablet, I used the PelliPouch™ for my wallet, phone and other small items. I needed a safe spot for them because I rarely wear a jacket in Thai temperatures! The PelliPouch™ still fits, but everything looks a bit too close for my liking.
That’s what I enjoy about the modular setup. I can adapt it to the journey without changing the entire luggage system. Before fitting my navigation tower and large tablet, I used a PelliPouch™ for my wallet, phone and small essentials. In Thailand’s heat, I rarely ride with a jacket, so having somewhere safe to keep these items is important.
I’m also adding a small GeckoGrip™, Bullfrog™ tank bag and Bullfrog™ panniers to the setup. The panniers will be useful for things I need regularly, including a towel (I sweat a lot!), a foldable backpack, a wind-blocking jacket for cold mountain evenings and a few other essentials. The tank bag will carry my phone, wallet, charging cables and spare glasses.
Three Years of UV, Mud, Rain and Crashes
Thailand isn’t exactly gentle on motorcycle luggage. We regularly experience UV levels of 11, along with intense tropical rain, mud, rocks, dust and the occasional crash. My Turkana luggage has experienced all of it. After three years of intensive use, the bags are still in remarkably good condition. Even the strong Thai sunshine hasn’t noticeably affected the material.
The only real sign of ageing is that the embroidered Turkana name has faded slightly. Getting the gear into Thailand wasn’t particularly easy either. Import regulations for motorcycle-related products can be strict, and incorrect shipping descriptions can result in extremely high import charges. Fortunately, with help from Turkana and Bartang in the Netherlands, we found a way. But the thing I appreciate most about my luggage isn’t just its durability. It’s the confidence it gives me when riding.
You know what’s really relaxing when you’re bouncing along a rough trail?
Not having to look back to check whether everything is still attached to the motorcycle. You just know it is!
I’ve seen riders with enormous bags strapped to their rear racks, hoping everything will still be there when they reach their destination. Meanwhile, the locals often look at my motorcycle with curiosity, probably wondering how this crazy foreigner manages to travel with everything packed into a few small bags!
Still Plenty of Roads Left to Explore
After 75,000 km, Freedom has become far more than just my motorcycle. She’s my trusted travelling companion, taking me from mountain passes and remote jungle trails to dusty farming roads and quiet villages. I’ve travelled extensively over the years, but these days I’m perfectly happy exploring Thailand and, hopefully, neighbouring countries such as Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and even China when circumstances allow.
There’s still an enormous amount to discover. My next adventure is already taking shape, a month-long camping trip in January. And although I’ve covered a fair amount of Thailand, I reckon it would take decades to ride all the places still on my list.
That’s the wonderful thing about adventure motorcycling. You don’t have to ride around the world to be a pioneer. Sometimes the best adventures are waiting a few hours from home. As long as Freedom keeps running, the luggage stays attached and the Grim Reaper keeps his distance, I’ll be out there exploring.
At my own pace, on my own terms, and always curious about what’s around the next bend.
Planning a Motorcycle Adventure in Northern Thailand?
For anyone keen to explore Northern Thailand by motorcycle, Robert recommends a few trusted local operators offering adventure bike rentals, self-guided routes and organised motorcycle tours. He knows the people behind these businesses personally and says they have years of experience, excellent local knowledge and are always willing to go the extra mile to help fellow riders explore Thailand.
